Here is the “long “ anticipated review of the Jing Gong G36C AEG, I know a few guys emailed me about it so here it is. 🙂
On Monday a friend came over with the JG G36C brand new in box. The packaging was not flashy, it simply displayed JG’s model number on the side with a bit of common knowledge information on the side. It was what’s inside that’s truly interesting.
Aside from the G36C, the gun also comes with an 8.4V 1100 mAh NiMH battery, a wall charger, a pack of ~200 BB’s, the gun manual and a couple of shooting targets. JG includes a high capacity magazine with the gun so you’re pretty much ready to rock and roll right out of the package. Note because BuyAirsoft imports the guns from the US, the flash hider of the JG G36C is neon orange.
The gun weighs in at just under 3kg (6 lbs) with the battery installed and is about the same weight as my TM G36C and CA G36. In size and physical characteristics the gun is identical to my TM G36C and everything between the two was cross compatible (mag well, body, mags, flash hider, etc). The body has a slightly glossier look than the TM or CA however it feels as solid and there is no flexing or creaking anywhere.
Noticeably missing on the JG G36C are any trademarks on both the gun and magazine. As you can see pretty much every part is physically identical to the TM, JG does claim that every part is cross compatible with the TM gun. My TM low cap, CA hi cap, MAG mid cap magazines were all compatible with the JG G36C.
Like the TM and CA G36C’s, a mini battery can be installed into the foregrip . Connect the battery, put it into place via the guide clip and slide the foregrip over top. While waiting for the 8.4V 1100mAh battery to charge, I installed an 8.4V 1400mAh battery and wanted to give the JG G36C a few test shots. With my low caps filled with 0.2g BB’s I proceeded to test the gun. The first thing I noticed was that the JG G36C was extremely loud. It seemed to fire pretty straight so next up was to chrony the gun with my Guarder Speeder 2000.
After firing a few rounds I was pretty amazed to see the initial velocity readings however the large variance between shots was also worrying. BB’s checked in at between 350-370 fps, the muzzle velocity is certainly impressive however a 20 fps difference is much too high for comfort. I would later find the source of the problem and will get into that a bit later.
While test firing the JG G36C I did notice another problem which would turn out to be electrical. There would be approximately a 2 second delay between trigger pull and shots fired from the gun on semi, full auto sometimes would cut out after 5 shots. I was looking forward to opening the mechbox but now I also have a problem to trouble shoot.
Stripping down the JG G36C is exactly the same as TM and CA, remove the magazine well pin, magazine well, rear pin behind the stock and then push the hopup forward and pull the mechbox out. After removing the mechbox from the pistol grip we’re greeted by this.
If you’re going to be working with the JG G36C mechbox becareful because there are a lot of sharp edges everywhere! After undoing all the screws and removing the stopper rail the mechbox was opened up.
Here is a breakdown of all major components, JG uses plastic bushings (which was replaced with metal), plastic spring guide, plastic piston/piston head and CA gears. The piston head is ventilated for a better O ring seal however everything else is exactly the same as TM. There was a ton of grease everywhere with the majority inside the cylinder by the cylinder head and blowing into the inner barrel.
Here are a few other details I noticed while inside the mechbox. The plastic spring guide only had one peg, it was clear the other side had snapped off but I’m not sure whether I did that or whether it came like that. I was not able to find the other side even after I cleaned up my work bench. I tried to installed a Guarder ver 3 metal spring guide only to find out that the slits for the spring guide arms were not thoroughly cut. I had to chisel away at the holes and even then the fit was not as comfortable as I would have liked. It ended up to be a lot more work than I expected so I put the plastic spring guide back in and figure I would deal with this when the stock piece breaks.
Next the mechbox contacts which are usually completed by the selector plate were soldered together. I don’t know why this was done but it works so I guess that’s all that matters.
The problem with the gun turned out to be with the Jing Gong G36C wiring assembly. There was poor contact with the positive wire which runs to the motor and I had to resolder that part. After that was done the JG G36C was as responsive as my TM G36C. 🙂 It did take about 5 hours of frustrating tweaking to locate the issue but I’m glad I did.
Putting the mecbox back into the body I did a bit more test firing, the trigger issue was gone however the muzzle velocity still varied by 20 fps. As I mentioned earlier, the piston was pushing a lot of the grease into the inner barrel and it needed to be cleaned out badly. After that was done muzzle velocity really tightened up and shots varied between 365-370 fps. 😀
The next big question with the Jing Gong G36C will be its reliability and that is something I cannot answer right now. It will be my friend’s main weapon for the season so I guess I’ll report if any issues arise.
After seeing and taking apart the JG G36C, it is a gun I would recommend to novice players. As a starter kit, it comes with everything you need although I’d probably get a better charger and more magazines when the finances allow. Just make sure you have a gunsmith handy though in case you run into problems like my friend did, yes it should work 100% right out of the box but for the price and what you get, it still seems worth the gamble. 🙂
Nov 26/07 Edit: I see through my referral traffic that many of you quoting the problems I experienced as fact for all JG G36Cs and that’s definitely not the case. I wanted to make it clear that the issues I had were with this gun only. I’ve seen a few more JG G36Cs and none had the electrical issue that affected this gun. Hope that clears a few things up, yes you can get a lemon which is difficult to fix but overall they seem to be pretty good. 🙂
So is that I no cause I don’t want to waste my bb’s
Oh tolerances for springers aren’t that great so you could probably reuse the BBs without any negative side effects to your guns but don’t stick them into your AEG again.
so to clarify:
what version was the gearbox used onf the jg g608?
The JG G36C (and all G36 series guns) use a version 3 mechbox.
Dude, i have just bought a JG G36c but i am frustrated.
The fist time o got the gun in hand, i just put the baterry that came with the gun and try to fire a and as you may know it had no charge, but it shoted about 10 shots b4 die. ok, so i put it to recharge.. while the charger was discharging the battery i discovered that 2 of the cells was defective and liquing, well… then i tryed another battery and the gun did not work at all, i tryed another battery… nothing… so i checked the fuse, and it was broken… then i replaced the fuse… put another battery and… still nothing… but i discovered that i have now a electric problem, when i pull the trigger, i can see the fuse is almost breaking, it expands as it was ready to break… so now i am sure it is a electric problem, but i am not familiar with the G36 yet, i have just a D-Boys SCAR and the system seems to be completely different so i am writing for you to know if theres something you can tell me to help me with this ptob, what could it be?
Thx a lot.
so u mean G36C are not good compare to M4A1 or other model or airsoft gun? atleast i know on your part about the G36, because im planning to buy G36C.. tnx for that..
Hi Diego, sorry for the late reply I forgot to answer your questions.
Hmm from the symptoms you’ve listed I’m not so sure if it’s an electrical problem you have, rather it sounds like there’s something in your mechbox that is stuck and your gun is trying to power through it by drawing more current. You’ll have to tear down your mechbox for this one, take everything apart and see if there’s a broken tooth on one of your gears, that can cause the problem you have.
Hey Rhyan.
No I am not saying the G36C is not a good weapon compared to a M4A1. When it comes to airsoft guns, they pretty much do all the same thing with the same power so it usually boils down to what gun you like cosmetically most. There are strong points to the G36C like using a version 3 mechbox and being light since it’s all plastic (the real version is mainly polymer). With the M4, you get a gun that is widely supported with lots of accessories, so if you like to bolt on a lot of crap onto your gun you might like that route.
The JG G36C is not my gun but rather a teammates. I’ve used both a TM G36C and CA G36 and liked both platforms however I’m using a Systema M4A1 PTW as my primary because all the gear commonly found is designed around the M4/M16 platform. Honestly I’m not a fan of the M4 series but I’m past the stage where I want to be different, most of my teammates have M4/PTWs so it makes sense for me to run this gun.
Which gun do you think looks better? Once you have that answer, that’s the gun you should buy.
Hi, I am really keen to buy a G36. I have looked at the CA, JG & TM. I was seriously considering either the JG or TM. I have a team mate who has suggested the JG will be as good as the TM. After reading your review and others on the TM is right to stop considering the JG?
thanx Will.
Of the G36s on the market (and I’ve owned the TM, CA and JG), the CA is definitely heads and shoulders nicer than both TM and JG. If you can afford it, I’d definitely recommend going that route first.
If it’s a choice between the TM and JG again it “depends”. If the field limits in your area are low (350 fps and lower) then I’d go with the TM since you’re pretty much guaranteed something that will work with 100% reliability.
If you play at higher limits then I’d go with the JG. In its stock form it’s perfectly adequate (then again so is the TM but you’ll have more things to replace internally if you go with a TM) though on your upgrade list should be a tightbore, metal bushings and a new hopup sleeve.
A teammate of mine has been using a JG G36C for 2+ years now (and she’s not easy on her gun) and it’s served her well so if you’re on a budget it’s a pretty nice AEG.
@xhack2
i got the gun months ago, days after reading this.
my upgrades were:
>madbull 6.02 240+mm(lol forgot exact length) inner barrel
>CA shimming
>CA white hop rubber
>hurricane bushings,brass with bearing spring guide
>black sorbothane pad on cylinder head
>SP120 spring
>teflon seals(i.e. cylinder head, hop assy)
>bearing piston head(lol darn forgot the brand again!!)
>stock cyma spur gear replacement(orig spur lost 3 teeth, dunno why.)
now shoots like a dream.
almost at the 400 FPS mark, at about 380FPS
i wont mod it any further, since FPS does not mean accuracy,and sometimes high FPS gets you a bad rep at the gamesites.
now to get a JG M4 GBBR!!!!
yeah i mostly agree that the market is so sold out on M4 and AK class AEG parts.
such frustration from other gun models.
and in my country, there is much debate which gun looks better, M4 or ak.
sigh.@Colin
I just got the gun today. How long do I charge it for?
Nice upgrades. 🙂 Yes consistency is more important than high FPS, unfortunately a lot of newbs don’t understand that and jack up their guns really high… Heh I’m interested in getting a GBBR too but it probably won’t be as useful for me in Canada since it can get quite cold and the FPS is too high for indoor use. Never say never though I may get one to play with the bolt, that’s a lot of fun. 🙂
Well it’s no surprise that the market is focused towards the M4/M16 and AK series of weapons, they’re the most readily available small arms in the world, that and all the gear is designed for those platforms.
Hi Marc.
Do yourself a favor and get a smart charger. Basic models are not expensive and it’ll ensure that you don’t kill your battery by overcharging it. I don’t know how long it takes to charge with the charger that it comes with, I have a Piranha digital charger and it works like a dream. I guess so you can test the gun when you have the battery plugged in check it every 10 minutes, when it gets warm to the touch it’s pretty much full. Hope that helps.
hi how long do i charge my jg g36c wit the battery it comes wit
Hi James.
That really depends on how much charge the battery still has. If you’re using the wall charger that comes with the gun, check it every 30 minutes and when your battery is warm it’s charged. I recommend dumping the wall charger though and getting a smart charger that automatically stops when your battery is full, it’ll keep your battery in tip top shape.
I was planning to buy the JG G36 (the type that accepts M4/M16 mags) but I read your review and now I’m kind of nervous. I’m not confident in my ability to take apart and fix my gun and the closest airsoft store from my house is 30 min away. Considering my situation, do you think I should still buy it?
Hi there Brian.
To be fair the JG G36C that I reviewed is an early version and JG has really stepped up its games in terms of internals. The last few that I’ve tweaked for friends/teammates have been good out of the box. Considering the price of the gun yeah I think it’s worth the “risk”. 🙂 Hope it serves you well.
Ok. I will buy it. By the way would you happen to know if the G36 that I described is able to fit a box magazine that is compatible with the M4?
Hmm that I don’t know. I have a feeling that box mags will not be compatible with the G36 because the mag well is wider than the M4. Yes your gun will come equipped with a device that allows you to use standard M4/M16 mags but the mag well will still be longer. Your best bet will be to measure the width of it and ask retailers how much space is available.
First off, thank.s fo.ryou.r reviews and response. We appreciate your help. I just got into Airsoft and got the JG G36C this month. First off, it’s a beauty(visualy) and is precise at 85ft. My only issue so far is when every so often(primarily in semi-mode) I fire off a round and it shoots out nothing. I’ll continue to pull the trigger, and it’ll fire off two bb’s at a pathetic 15ft. Any clue as to what may be happening inside the gun? Would you recommend I tear apart the gear box and replace some parts. If so, what and where could I get said parts? Thanks in advance.
Hi there Marc.
When you’re having problems with your gun, is your battery low? Do you have to cycle to auto in order to get the gun to fire? When your battery is at full charge, you don’t have this problem right? How old is your gun, how many rounds have you shot through it? You may have to replace the switch contacts as those can corrode and cause electrical issues but hmm that would be intermittent.
Does the mechbox cycle when you’re having this problem? LOL sorry this will be a multi comment thing, I don’t think I’ll be able to solve your issue with one post.
LOL. Well, my battery is fully charged and no I do not have to switch to auto. If i pull the trigger one or two more times it will shoot out the rounds(2-3 bb’s in one shot) out to about 15 feet. after they clear, it’ll continue to shoot but occasionally misfire.
I ordered the gun on 1/15/10 and got it on 1/22/10. I don’t know when it was manufactured. i’ve only put about 1000 rounds through it, but I noticed the problem after shooting the initial 20-50 rounds .
When I have misfires, i assume the mechbox is cycling given that it does fire off after a round or two.
Hmm. It sounds like you may have to replace your tappet plate, that’s the piece that pulls the nozzle back which allows a BB to enter the hopup chamber. Luckily that piece is relatively cheap (even up here in Canada where everything airsoft related is expensive), unfortunately you need to open up the mechbox to do that. Sorry to hear about your trouble. 🙁
I was afraid I’d have to do that. Being new to airsoft, I guess It’s best to learn this now rather than later. I’ll do some research on opening up the mechbox and take a stab at it. Do you have any sites in mind you may recommend?
Sigh sometimes you get a lemon, sorry to hear about your troubles. As for sites, Mechbox.com (http://www.mechbox.com/g36) has a decent tutorial. If you’re mechanically inclined it shouldn’t be that difficult. It sounds like you need a new tappet though without seeing it, it’s difficult to say. Good luck man!
Hey,
New to airsoft. I just bought this gun. I like it a lot. Good accuracy and range it seems. Don’t have a lot to compare to but so far I like it. I have encountered a few problems though. It may be that the gun is just more powerful, but it seems to run through the stock battery pretty quickly. The first day I took it out fully charged and played about 4 hours and it died. I charged it, with a smart charger, on Friday night then back out again on Saturday and it was dead very fast. I put another battery on it from another gun and it worked well for about 10 min and then that battery died. Its possible the second battery was low as well since it came from a gun that was also in use. I was wondering if this is typical of the gun or what typical battery life is. I am also not one to stay on the trigger.
Secondly it seems like sometimes my trigger sticks on automatic. On several occasions Ill remove my finger from the trigger and the gun will continue to fire for another second or two.
Any suggestions?
Hi there Tyler.
There could be many reasons why your gun kills batteries quickly, there could be a lot of resistance in the electrical system, the shimming could be poor or it may even be temperature related. The stock battery isn’t the greatest, what I’d do before tearing the gun apart is get yourself a high quality battery and test it out. If you find that performance is still poor, then you may have to replace the wiring (fairly easy to do) and while you’re in the gun, reshim the gears. The “general” rule is you use up 1 mA per shot so if you’re using the stock battery you’ll get roughly 1100 shots out of it.
When you let go of the trigger and the gun keeps firing is the trigger physically stuck too, or does it pop back to its normal location? It sounds like the spring that pulls back on the err bridge piece that completes the circuit may need replacing. 🙁
Sorry it’s difficult to say without seeing the thing.
plaese tell me the charge time with the charger and the battery it come’s with.
Hi Joseph.
I’m sorry I don’t know how long it’ll take to charge the battery with the charger it comes with. I would recommend you get a smart charger though, the battery is pretty good but the charger will definitely kill the battery if you’re not careful. If you must use the stock charger, keep checking it every 30 minutes and see if the battery is getting warm. If it’s too hot to put on your forearm, then it’s done.
Hope that helps.
Hey,
I am completely new to airsoft. I have done quite abit of research on it and have found out most answers of my various questions. But there is only one question i can’t seem to find an answer to. It’s whether to get a JG M16A4 or M4. I know its off topic but i was wondering if you could give me some advice
Hi Aidan.
That’s really a question that only you can answer yourself. 😉 I’m 5′ 8″ and find a M16 a bit long to wield, though outdoors it isn’t so bad. Also you may find using a M16 in a CQB environment may be difficult, I know I do when I used a full length rifle. Then again if you’re taller it may not be as difficult for you as it is for me. Which do you like more, the M16 or M4? Performance wise (stock that is) they’ll be very similar and since airsoft is suppose to be about fun, get the one you like cosmetically most.
Hi there,
Recently purchased a JG36c secondhand.
Love it so far, but was wondering, do they all have version 3 boxes? I’m not sure how old mine is now. So not sure if older ones have different internals.
Just want to get to know my AEG. Once I know the model or the innards, I can figure out other bits.
Thanks
Hi Chris.
Yes all JG G36s (all G36s except the STAR/ARES) AEGs use version 3 mechboxes. If it works and fires well don’t worry about the internals, lol no need to fix it if it’s not broken. 🙂
Thanks Colin.
Sounds good to me I’d have to pay someone else anyway (I’m all fingers and thumbs).
Trying to figure out what I need to spend money, before I move to the things I want to spend money on.
I’ll stick to getting some nice pieces to stick on the RIS for now!
Hehe that sounds like a lot more fun than tweaking the internals. 😉
I noticed in your review you stated that the rifle weighs in at approx. 6 pounds. I’m just checking because in many reviews that I’ve read, that is the topic that most can’t agree on. I’m looking for something lighter than my 9 pound m4. And this g36c is the front-runner and keeping most of my attention right now. Thank you for any feedback you can give as to if this gun is a good, light gun.
I no longer have access to the JG G36C that was used in the review but it’s considerably lighter than a metal M4 with no accessories. IIRC I weighed the gun with my bathroom scale (I don’t remember with or without a battery but mini’s don’t weigh much), if you’re looking for a lighter alternative to your M4, the G36C is definitely a good gun to consider.
iv had a JG g36 for about a year now, its the RIS SD version.
in the time iv had it its been skirmished a hell of a lot, about 3 games a fortnight. and the only problem iv had with the gun was the spring guide broke after replacing the spring.
i had to replace the spring as the power had dropped after much usage which is fair enough, otherwise i would have left it.
but its all good and its running about 315fps, iv seen people turn up to sites with expensive guns showing them off, and i see them later on having to source a fault on it. my budget gun has outlived many of my friends airsoft guns from ICS, KWA, and marui and still fires well to this day.
if your looking for a decent backup gun, or if your looking to start airsoft id recommend a JG shooter.
and about the g36/m4 argument, its a personal choice at the end of the day
but m4/16 and varients are really over used. and you have to do something seriously special for it too stand out a bit (after all airsoft is a bit of a safe zone fashion parade). whereas with a 36 you can do something subtle and it gets noticed and looks completely unique
Hi Alex.
Thanks for your feedback, yes I do believe the JG G36C (or any G36 model) is a great platform to run or even start with and the one that I reviewed a few years ago is still running strong. Haha yeah I do like the G36 platform more myself but gear is generally designed for an AR platform which is why I’ve given in… Finding good German gear in the colours I want is hard!
Hey,
December 2010, I bought a G36 K Jing Gong. The aeg was tested 350 fps out of the box.
The last 4 months, I played 5 skirms (fps max 350 for aeg), never having problems with the local fps test.
Usually it tested around 330 to 355 fps, but never higher. I used 0.25 g bbs to reduce the fps.
Today I didn’t pass the fps test because we had to test with 0.20 g bbs. The fps was never lower than 390!!
When I did the test with 0.25 g bbs and the HOP-UP full open, I could reduce to 345 fps.
But as you know, at some skirms you have to do the fps test with chargers of the organization, only with 0.20 g bbs. I will never pass those tests.
My question is if there is anything I can do about it?
Is it possible to put another spring, less powerful and what will it cost?
I have to mention that I carefully clean and oil my guns after use. Is that a possible reason?
Are there any differences possible through the weather conditions? Winter-spring?
I hope you have a solution and hear you soon.
Thanks
Hi there Lucky.
Unfortunately when you test a gun, you’re suppose to be testing for energy, not fps so your gun is too hot for your local field. If you use this FPS/energy calculator, you’ll see that 350 fps w/ 0.25g BBs is ~390 fps w/ 0.2g BBs. There is nothing wrong with your gun, JG’s just come shooting around 380-400 fps out of the box and the only thing you can do is swap the spring. As for cost, a spring in Canada runs ~$15-20 and I think it would be about the same in your country.
No cleaning and oiling is not the cause of the high FPS and if anything your FPS will be lowest in the winter as air is denser when cold.
Hope that helps!
Hey
I’ve trying to find a good AEG, i have used a pistol now for a few months, and i want an AEG. The problem is that i dont have much money, 200€ gun (I live in Europe, we use euros) is almost too much for me. G36C seems a good gun to me, does it work like 1-3 years or six months without big problems? The Cyma’s AK-guns seems good too, but id rather buy a gun what my friends doesnt have. Could you say some good guns for me, 100-200 euros is the price i could pay for my first AEG.
Hi there.
Unfortunately a bit of luck is involved when buying AEGs, some work for years without problems while others fail on the first shot. I do not know of any European airsoft stores, so I am not familiar with prices there. If you’re tight on money and the JG G36C is within your price range then it’s a decent gun which should (key word is should) give you little if any trouble. The Cyma AKs are pretty decent too, I have a small AKS-74U as a loaner and it’s worked quite well for me. If anything I would probably recommend you get a similar platform to your friends, that way you can share mags and batteries should you run into trouble on the field or are taking on another team in more organized play.
Hope that helps!
I have the JG G36K and I am new to airsoft, I was looking around for some scopes to mount on the gun and I have no clue what type of rail it is, because all I see is either Picattiny or Weaver rails. Could you please tell me which one it is, and sort of just clarify the differences between the two?
Thanks.
Hi Fred.
Please forgive the late reply, I remember approving this comment but forgot to reply…
I’m not s ure the difference frankly but when I look it up, it looks like they’re the same, just different names for the rail. LOL late and not helpful…
Hey Colin,
Like most of the people above me, i’m new and looking to get into airsoft.
Currently, i’m stuck between the G36C and the G36k (both JG), but i’m undecided. I’m leaning towards the K, because of it’s scope, but every skirmish on youtube i see people are using the G36C.
Is there some kind of hardware/feel disadvantage that the K model has that the C doesnt? Or is it just preference?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Zach.
I can’t speak for the JG G36K optic but I know the STAR/ARES & CA optics just plain suck (poor eye relief mainly) and those companies usually use higher quality parts than JG. I personally found using the G36C iron sights quite easy to use and acquiring targets almost as fast as when using a red dot. If I were buying, I’d prefer the G36C railed top, the irons are easy to use and you have the rail should you want to put something on it. The G36/K top, you’re pretty much stuck with what you get.
Of course if you don’t use optics or sights, then get which ever gun you think looks better.
Hope that helps.
Thanks, Colin 🙂