I recently acquired a “prototype” G&G AKMS and I have to say, I think I have finally found an AK variant AEG that I’ll keep.  Having played with more than a few AKs, nothing except maybe a teammate’s RS Type 56 or highly upgraded AKs have felt right or solid enough for me to game with.  I say that because it’s like a rite of passage for me to fall on all my rifles multiple times hence me wanting something that will not break. 😉

Having previously owned a G&G RK47 (which was also a nice gun but not for me), I was definitely intrigued at the AKMS prototype’s offering.  Based on the real AKM-S (modernized AK47 with folding stock) the G&G AKMS definitely looks the part when comparing it to pictures of the real thing.

The G&G AKMS is rather plain looking (what I like), like other AKM style weapons and similar to AK47/74 though with subtle differences. The gun weighs in at ~3.5kg (7.5 lbs), externally is made entirely of steel with wood handgrips and a plastic pistol grip.  G&G AEGs normally comes with hi capacity magazines though the one that the AKMS came with this gun was malfunctioning so the retailer gave me a mid cap mag instead (which is fine by me, I hate hi caps).  Also included is a front sight adjustment too, ~500 BBs, a barrel cleaning rod and the user’s manual.  According to G&G, the AKMS comes with a 6.04mm diameter tightbore 455mm inner barrel but that is something I cannot verify.

The G&G AKMS is equipped with a folding stock so that means it uses a stick battery which goes under the top cover.  Space is tight so watch out for stray wires when putting the top cover back on. The controls are on the right side of the gun, the selector lever like all AKs goes from safe to auto then semi.  The lever is large enough to manipulate even with thick gloves on (something that is useful here in Canada during winter games) and the hopup adjustment is hidden behind the bolt door.  Because the battery is stored in the top above the receiver the fake bolt does not move all the way back like with G&G’s RK47.  Also missing is the entire long stroke piston assembly (that comes with the RK47) but that’s understandable since the battery is in the way.

On the left side of the gun, there is the stock lock button which when depressed allows you to fold or extend the stock.  There are also two sling loops, one near the gas block and one at the rear near the sling lock button. Notably missing is a rail on the left side for attaching Russian style optics.  Right behind the fore grip is a faux manufacture year and serial number.

Like all other AKs, the open iron sights are only adjustable for height but that’s not a huge deal for airsoft and at least for me using them is easier than with the peep iron sights on M4/M16s. The gun comes equipped with an AKM slant muzzle break; it is coloured orange so I guess this AEG came from the US but whatever that’s something that a quick spray of paint can fix.

Taking down the G&G AKMS is very different from the traditional TM design, whether it is better I don’t know but the gun certainly feels very good to hold and use.  To those interested in the internals sorry I am not going to tear it down just yet, the gun is shooting very smoothly so I see no need to go into the mechbox.  Not as much of a tweaker as I once was, perhaps I am getting lazy.

The G&G AKMS fires just like every other AEG, groupings seem good thanks to the 6.04mm tightbore inner barrel though I have yet to field the gun in an in game situation.  At the moment I have only tested the AKMS with TM and G&P mags and both brands function just fine in the rifle and other brands should work just fine as long as they are TM compatible.  The gun chronies in at ~425 fps with 0.2g BBs though I am not sure if the gun was tweaked by the retailer beforehand. One thing I did notice is the plastic err cap that covers the gears with version 3 mechboxes by the trigger was missing so dirt can get into the mechbox.  Will have to mcguyver  something to block that space in the mean time.

First impressions from the G&G AKMS are pretty darn good and this is a rifle I think I will be keeping.  Time will tell how it stands up (interested in seeing it compared to the RS Type 56s on the team) to hard play and if there are any updates I will definitely post them. I am not a collector but I am told since this is a prototype model from G&G, there are only two in North America right now and that is kind of cool.  I certainly hope G&G goes ahead and releases its AKMS because this gun here is damn solid.

In low light operations having a flashlight is a must (that is if you don’t have night vision), used sparingly it’s a great tactical tool and nothing is more handy than a weapon light.  Attached to the gun the flashlight can almost be used as an aiming device (assuming the contact is not too far) and is always guaranteed to light up the area that the gun is pointed at.

For the last four odd years I’ve been using the Insight M3, which has served me well but I’ve wanted something that is LED based for many reasons (more efficient, last longer, does not generate heat, just to name a few).  When I decided to order a new pair of Magnum boots on LA Police Gear, I saw that it had a sale on the Streamlight TLR-1 so I decided to add it to my shopping list. 🙂

The Streamlight TRL-1 weapon light comes with two Streamlight CR123 batteries as well as a few different mounts (Glock, 1913, S&W 99, TSW and Berretta 92) and a basic instruction manual. According to Streamlight the TLR-1 puts out light in the 135 lumens range, while I do not have a device to measure this it is brighter than my old Insight M3.  The flashlight is constructed of aluminum, is waterproof and the LED is rated for 50,000 hours. Run time according to Streamlight is 2 1/2  hours of continuous output.

Now that the “specs” are out of the way the Streamlight TLR-1 is roughly the same size as Insight M3 though it’s slightly heavier (the M3 is plastic).

Mounting the light is different from the Insight M3 (more on that in a sec) but the controls are in the same spot and function in the same manner. To mount the light onto a pistol or picatinny rail is a bit different from other weapon lights.  Instead of sliding along the rail, move the TLR-1 into position, press the twist/secure button and the light clamps in place.  Tighten the screw (hand tight is enough) and the TLR-1 is nice and secure on your gun rail. Dimensions of the flashlights are about the same and with the TLR-1 installed on the TM Glock 17, I do not have any problems inserting the combination into my Safariland 6004 Glock w/M3 thigh holster.

At the rear there’s a clip which secures the err rear switch mechanism (don’t know what it’s called) and it’s pretty darn tight.  The first few times you’ll definitely need to use a tool (a coin works quite well) to snap it out of place but once it breaks in, you should be able to do it with just your fingers.  When the battery compartment is open, insert your batteries then close things up.

With the Streamlight TLR-1 locked in place on your weapon, you certainly have a something that’s ready to rock in low light conditions.  The 135 lumens rating is high enough to blind opponents in a CQB environment and the LED bulb means you’ll have something that can run for a long time without killing the batteries, burn out or generate a ton of heat (yeah I’m guilty of accidentally leaving activating the my weapon light while in my kit bag).

The Streamlight TLR-1 is still new to me and time will tell if it serves me as well as my old Insight M3.  The manufacturing quality seems top notch and Streamlight has a good reputation, I have little doubts that my search for a LED based pistol weapon light is over.

In airsoft, shotguns are definitely underrated and like their real steel counterparts airsoft shotguns truly come into their own in CQB situations (single BB shotguns are not true shotguns). Double Eagle has released a copy of TM’s Super 90 M3 springer shotgun with its M56A. A hybrid cross between the M3 Super 90 and M3 Shorty, the DE M56A has the shorter outer barrel and a full stock.

The Double Eagle M56A comes with one 30 round shell (mine came with one, I think it’s suppose to come with two), a 100 round “pistol mag” BB loader, a sling and a small bag of 6mm BBs. Since the gun is a copy of the TM system, the M56A fires three BBs at a time so each shell gives you ten shots.

TM and DE shells have the same physical dimensions and are cross compatible between the two platforms. Accessing the magazine area, there is a lever on the right side of the trigger which when pulled opens up the shell door and ejects the 30 round shell. One of the first things to break with TM shotguns is the shell door hinge and there’s no doubt the M56A will suffer from the same design problem.

As you can see besides the stock the DE M56A is the same size as the TM M3 Shorty (Smokey’s rear grip installed on the TM) and everything is placed in the same position. The M56A is slightly lighter than the TM M3 as externally the gun is completely plastic while the TM has a metal outer barrel, shell door and sights. On that note the M56A’s sights have been painted white which makes acquiring targets easier than with TM’s black sights.

I’ve been playing for years with the TM M3 Shorty, using the DE M56A is very familiar though I feel the stock is too long for someone my size (I’m 175cm or 5’8” in height) and teammates who are similar in size to me agree that the Super 90 stock is too long. The M56A uses a button safety which is great if you’re right handed however if you’re a southpaw you may have difficulty manipulating the switch.

Since the gun fires multiple BBs in a single shot, chronying the M56A is difficult but when one BB is loaded the gun comes in at 280 fps with 0.2g BBs, which is slightly higher (250 fps) than my 4 year old TM M3 shorty but then again, spring in the M56A is brand new and will settle after some use. The gun has a fixed hopup, I hear it’s set for 0.2g BBs but I find the flight path is better with 0.25g BBs.

Effective range of the DE M56A is less than a stock TM AEG but that’s alright it’s a shotgun after all. In CQB I would feel comfortable engaging targets as far as 20-25 meters, after that I have to fire the gun as a mortar. 😉 Compared to a rifle or pistol the ROF is much lower so that’s something the player has to adjust to but BB spread at 4 meters is ~ 10 cm which definitely helps make up for the low ROF. The feeling of getting a two’fer with one shot is pretty good.

In terms of a clone the DE M56A is pretty close to the TM M3 Shorty, the stock is a bit long for my liking but others might not mind. For CQB the DE M56A is a decent primary weapon once you adjust for the lower ROF. I have a TM M3 Shorty already so this is not something I would get but for the cost (even in Canada) the DE M56A is inexpensive. Shotguns are a lot of fun to use but it’s definitely a third or fourth weapon in line. If you’re new to airsoft get a decent AEG and pistol first but if you’re a veteran and want a challenge, shotguns are fun!

Anyway it has been a couple of weeks since I picked up the Combat Machine M4A1 (G&G’s entry level brand) and decided to take it apart today, or at least I did as much as I could but more on that later.  Let’s recap what comes with the gun…

The Combat Machine M4A1 comes with a 450 round high capacity magazine, ~1000 rounds of 0.2g BBs and a cleaning rod.  The M4A1 is pretty plain with a standard M4 heat shield handgrip, detachable plastic carry handle and a six position LE stock. As the box indicates the CM M4A1 also supports G&G’s new pneumatic blow back mechanism which gives the gun a bit of novelty, even if the feature doesn’t really do anything. Out of the box, the gun chronies at 320 fps with 0.2g BBs according to my Guarder Speeder 2000.

As with all regular M4A1 AEGs the battery goes into the handgrip and to keep the cables in place and tidy, G&G zip ties the battery cable to the outer barrel. To access the hopup, pull on the charging handle and the dust cover will flop open.  That will also pull the fake bolt back which allows you adjust hopup dial. Combat Machine is G&G’s entry level brand and as you can see from the third picture the gun comes with a three piece outer barrel. That was a bit disappointing, I guess eventually this gun will suffer from the dreaded barrel wobble problem. Also note the front section of the outer barrel is made from a single piece of cast metal so you’ll need to get a new front sight if you want to install a single piece barrel.

Removing the upper receiver of the Combat Machine M4A1 is the same as with Classic Army, G&P and of course G&G M4s. The Combat Machine M4A1 uses a hybrid version 2/3 mechbox and cracking this shell will be difficult.  It has a lot of  metal up front where the cylinder head is and is not affected by the design flaw that affects Version 2 mechbox shells.

The front pin is hinged which is a nice feature, now you don’t have to worry about losing that pin.  The hopup unit is one piece and made of plastic.  The barrel is made from aluminum and from what I’m told it’s standard bore (6.08mm). Another neat feature with the Combat Machine M4A1 is when you press the forward assist button, it releases the anti reverse latch which allows the spring to fully decompress.

Here’s a close up of the blow back mechanism from the outside anyway, I wasn’t able to get into the mechbox so I’m not sure how it works internally.  I am told from a friend who was able to take apart his gun that there’s a hole at the top of the mechbox and which diverts some of the compressed air from the cylinder into the black tube which pushes a piston attached to the fake bolt.

I’ll admit that it’s certainly neat but it wears off quickly. When the gun is empty the bolt only moves back a couple of centimeters but when loaded the bolt moves as far as the above picture shows when I pull the charnging handle back. You can’t lock the fake bolt back with the Combat Machine M4A1 but I believe you can with the G&G and Top Tech M4s with support this feature.

After seeing G&G cut corners with the Combat Machine M4A1, I was pleasently surprised to see the pistol grip has brass inserts for the motor plate screws, that means it’ll never strip. The mag catch comes apart like with a real M4 and the motor is the standard long type.

The reason I was not able to get into the mechbox is because for some reason there’s a piece of plastic in the groves of the buffer screw.  My screwdriver just can’t grab it. 🙁  Very disappointing, if I figure out a way to remove the plastic I’ll rip the mechbox out and snap some pictures.

The Combat Machine M4A1 feels pretty solid and if I were a novice entering the hobby I’d have no qualms using a weapon like this.  As a loaner I feel comfortable that I’ll be lending friends something reliable and if it breaks it’s not that big a deal since it was cheap. 😉  At the end of the season (or when something pops up) I’ll post an update on how the gun performs.

A week and a  half ago I ordered an EOTech 552 replica from Tactical Gear Depot (which at the time was on sale for $54 shipped) and it arrived today.  Initially I was going to put it on the Echo1 SAL but decided it would be better suited on the M249 Para since using the iron sights are near impossible with a goggles on. That and it looks a lot cooler on the M249. 😀

The EOTech 552 Replica comes with an instruction poster, a micro cleaning lens cloth and two AA batteries.  The replica will mount on any 20mm picatinny rail but make sure you have enough space because the sight is quite long.

Here are some left/right pictures of the EOTech 552 replica and it looks pretty close to the real thing. The RDS reticle is adjustable well to a point, the windage settings are pretty good and you should be able to sight your gun well left and right.  Height options are a lot more limited and if the replica sits high up on the weapon you may have difficulty getting the reticle low enough.

The front lens of the EOTech replica is very shiny, almost like a mirror and the glass on the back is also very glossy.  The rear lens is also tinted brown, in low light you may have difficulty seeing through the optic (yes I know that sounds ridiculous but that’s how mine is).

On the rear pressing up or down activates the EOTech replica and it will remain on for two hours before automatically shutting off.  There are 20 brightness level settings and pressing up and down will allow the optical sight to scroll through the various settings.  Pressing the circule NV button on the back changes the reticle from red to green (and vice versa), when the red reticle is selected there’s slight ghosting even at the dimmest setting.  There is no problem when the RDS is set to green.

To insert/change the battery, lift up the lever at the front and slide the battery compartment out.  Insert ths two AA batteries, reinstall and you’re set.

As mentioned earlier the EOTech 552 replica fits just fine on 20mm picatinny rails and there were no problems putting the optic on both my PTW and M249.  I’ve read quite a few instances where the rear window cracks (an issue that seems to plague many different replica EOTech sights) after a bit of use, I guess we’ll have to see if it happens to me too. Still if it does it’s only $54 US so that’s not the end of the world.

I guess that’s it for now and as usual when there are updates, I will post them. 🙂

May 18, 2009 edit: I forgot to update this post but I have since sold the EOTech 552 replica because I found it doesn’t suit my needs.  Height was not adjustable enough to use with the M249 and I find it’s easier to sight things with my aimpoint on the PTW.

As an accessory for looks the EOTech 552 replica is great but in terms of usefulness on the field, it’s just not there for me.

Yesterday I picked up a new toy, an Echo1 SAL (Stand Alone Launcher) and it’s pretty damn cool!  It’s a force multiplier type weapon and can fire a single 40mm airsoft grenade round. The complete package weighs in at ~ 1 kg and is  The Echo1 SAL looks like a rough copy of the GB Tech M203 Masterkey Standalone Buttstock Module.

As you can see there are two components to the Echo1 SAL, a RIS mounted M203 grenade launcher and the frame itself. The SAL frame is made entirely of plastic (Echo1 says it’s high density polymer whatever that really means) as is the frame of the M203 RIS grenade launcher but the barrel assembly is metal. There’s a 20mm rail on the top for mounting optics or the M203 leaf sight.

The Echo1 SAL function like a regular M203 grenade launcher; you pull the trigger, the shell fires and then it needs to be replaced. The M203 should work with all 40mm grenades on the market though I’ve only tested them with CA 165 round and Madbull XM108HP grenades and they work flawlessly.

If you want to remove the M203 grenade launcher and mount it on another weapon that’s a breeze, undo the two RIS knobs and viola it’s off and free to mount on any railed weapon.

If you do not like Echo1 M203 grenade launchers (like if you want something with a metal frame and real weight for instance), the 20mm rail on the inside can accommodate any M203 as long as it’s rail mounted. I don’t think the Madbull XM203 series are compatible with the Echo1 SAL frame but I do not have one to test with.

On the rear there is a M4 “LE style” collapsible butt stock which makes aiming a breeze. The stock and buffer tube can be removed (like how you do with a regular airsoft M4A1) and the Echo1 SAL can be wielded like a pistol but I personally like the feel of a stock. 😉

Overall the look and feel of the Echo1 SAL is pretty good though I did not like the sharp edges around the pistol grip area…

The edges are quite sharp and can be uncomfortable to hold if you’re drawing the weapon quickly, I certainly hope Echo1 rounds and smooths this part out in future models. Next I would have liked to see side rails (for a quadrant sight perhaps) and a sling mount near the front so you can use a 2/3 point sling.  A single point sling will leave the weapon dangling which can make things a bit awkward when you’re trying to move around.

I have yet to battle test the Echo1 SAL but having used other grenade launchers in games I can’t wait to use this in a CQB situation. It feels pretty darn good and as usual when there are updates I will pass them along. 🙂

The AI Tornado is easily the most effect grenade on the market and it’ll clear a fair sized room of bad guys quite easily, but there are some cases where a frag grenade is not appropriate. If there are hostages or sensitive equipment which need to be retrieved, the attacking squad has no choice but to pile into the room as fast as possible to overwhelm the enemy. What is needed is a flashbang type device which unfortunately does not exist, at least for airsoft. I’ve been using the Thumper TG6 but at ~$5 a pop, it can get pretty expensive to run continuously.

Airsoft Innovations has come to the rescue with its Distraction Device kit. For around the price of a bag of BBs, you can pick up the DD kit which converts the Tornado from a frag grenade to a distraction device.

Included in the package is the burst ring, 48 burst discs and the instruction manual. Converting the Tornado to and from grenade to distraction device takes about 30 seconds. If you run into difficulty the instructions sheet will guide you; it’s well written and easy to follow. In any case we’ll go through converting the tornado to a distraction device here.

First, take off the valve cover from the bottom and then pop off the safety plug with your thumb – hold the cap in your hands with the side with words facing you, then press on the rubber plug.

Once that’s done, clean the inside of your valve cover of any dirt, then take a burst disk and tape it into the center of the cap. Now we need to install the burst ring, which will take a few seconds…

Put the burst ring into the circular opening with the O ring sitting in the upward position (if the bottom of the grenade is facing you, you should be able to see the burst ring O ring). Once that’s done, insert the pin, gas up the Tornado, screw in the valve cover and you’re set. You now have a distraction device, which is as close as you can get to a flashbang. To use the Tornado simply pull the pin, throw it into the room and follow in as it goes off.

According to AI, the Tornado generates ~120dB of noise at 3′. While I have no tools to measure this, it is on par with the noise the Thumper makes when I set both off in my condo (wife absolutely loved me testing it over the weekend). With 50 burst discs going for $4.95US from AI, the Tornado distraction device costs pennies to run, making it much cheaper than the Thumper which comes in at ~$5 a shot.

Having used and been on the receiving end of the Tornado distraction device at TTAC3 I can say you never know what to expect when a Tornado is tossed into a room. If it’s a frag, you’ll be hit in a few seconds. If it’s in flash bang mode while you’re focusing on the grenade, you’ll be shot by the swarm of people entering the room.

Yeah it works pretty darn well. 🙂

For many, airsoft is about simulation combat and one device that has been MIA from the scene is an effective grenade. The Escort, Deep Fire and PFI models (just to name a few) certainly look good but are not really practical to use due to low lethality. As a seasoned CQB player at the TTAC3 facility, I’ve had the luxury of trying many different grenades and all performed poorly.

The Airsoft Innovations Tornado Grenade promises to change the game that we play, both indoors and out. Besides BBs and gas, the AI Tornado is reusable like the Escort and Deep Fire grenades (if you collect all the extra parts that pop out with the latter two). In terms of ammo capacity the Tornado holds 180 BBs and can be used with either duster or propane. It’s ~130mm in height, has a diameter of ~55mm and fits in traditional M4/M16 type mag pouches or dedicated grenade pouches. To give you an idea on its size, here’s how the AI Tornado compares to a CA M4 low cap mag and the TG6 Thumper distraction device as well as the grenade in a variety of pouches.

Included in the retail package is the safety pin/resetting tool, bottom safety cap and user’s manual. I also got a bottle of AI’s grenade silicon oil which has a higher viscosity (sold seperately) than AI’s GBB silicon oil. It’s important to note which oil you’re using with the grenade and GBBs because GBB silicon oil is too thin for the grenade and grenade oil will gunk up the internals of a gun.

In the fourth picture, while it looks like the grenade is loose, when I’m wearing my HSGI Wasatch the grenade is secure even if I run around. The third and fourth pictures show the grenade in an Eagle smoke grenade pouch. That’s all I have at the moment will update when I have other pouches to test with.

Prepping and loading the AI Tornado with gas is pretty straight forward. Unplug the cap which exposes the hole at the top of the grenade (in picture one, the hole is circled in red), reset the grenade by inserting the resetting tool if necessary and insert the pin into the appropriate delay spot (1.5s or 3s). After the stuff at the top is done turn the grenade over and fill with your gas of choice (3-5 seconds is long enough), it’s important that the safety pin has been inserted otherwise the grenade will go off and pop in your hands. In the User’s manual AI includes a handy chart which gives you an idea at what pressure duster and propane exerts at a given temperature and when the relief valve will kick in. If that does happen get a set of pliers, pull the relief valve on the bottom outwards then push it back in, that will reset it.

Filling the BBs is rather simple align your BB speed loader (or tube and rod if you’re old school), plug away till you meet resistance then repeat on the opposite side. The first few times you load may be difficult but once you find the angle that works things will be easy. Once the BBs are loaded, screw the bottom cap on and the AI Tornado is armed and ready to go. BBs are held in the grenade via clips at the entrance. If you forget the fill process, it is printed on the back of the grenade, along with the warnings and disclaimers. When armed with 180 BBs the Tornado does rattle ever so slightly but it’s not as bad as running around with a hi cap magazine.

Using the grenade is as easy as pulling the pin and tossing it into the area that you want to frag. Try and pull the pin straight out, if you pull it on an angle it may be difficult and it’s possible that you could bend the safety pin. Note since there is no spoon, you have to get rid of the grenade after pulling the pin or risk the Tornado going off In your hands and killing your whole team (happened to me a few times ;)). After tossing when the timer goes off, the Tornado starts to spin (be it in mid air or on the ground) and spews BBs in all directions.

I do not have the ability to chrony the Tornado however AI gives you an idea at its power with this YouTube video. It doesn’t hurt when you’re hit but BBs do strike with enough force that you know to call yourself out in an indoor environment. The timer employed by the AI Tornado is very consistent which makes the grenade very reliable to use.

In terms of effectiveness, it’s very useful in a CQB environment, clearing out campers in a defended position is a breeze and it also works quite well as a distraction device. Indoors the grenade can easily be effective in an area as large as 25 square meters!

Maintenance is easy, simply drop two drops of AI’s grenade silicon oil into the gas reservoir when the shuttle is in the forward position. AI recommend this be done every two times the grenade goes off and the grenade oil bottle has enough for about 600 throws.

I haven’t tried the AI Tornado outdoors yet however a teammate has used it a few times at FlagRaiders and it works best in airburst mode (the 1.5s delay). If the grenade hits dense grass or other vegetation though many times the Tornado does not have enough power to punch through or hit an opponent with enough force that they’ll know. After I have more experience with the Tornado outdoors, I will update this review with further thoughts.

I have been fortunate enough to be part of the Airsoft Innovations Tornado testing program since almost the beginning and it has been interesting to see the direction that MadMax has taken things. From the octopus prototype to the many possible release samples, the current iteration is certainly the easiest to use. Compared to the other grenades on the market, the AI Tornado is definitely the most combat effective and in CQB/indoors it rules. It might not look as nice as some of the other grenades out there but only chairsofters care about looks right? 😉 With a retail price of $100 CDN, the AI Tornado is relatively expensive but for the price of other airsoft grenades, this offers you much more for the money.

I wanted to post this earlier but have been very busy in the last few weeks. Anyway a reader emailed me earlier in the year about his KWA M9 PTP pistol, the wings which align the outer and inner barrel with nozzle broke on his gun and was wondering if I had heard of the same thing. At the time I didn’t but it looks like my KWA M9 PTP has suffered the same fate.

While the failure looks catastrophic, if I use a pin and push the remaining wing into place when putting the slide back on the gun does function just fine. Of course I’m not sure about any long term damage that may occur due to the cycling of the barrel being uneven. What makes the matter worse is Mark has a KWA M9 PTP and his gun failed in the exact same way.

From what I hear on the grape vine, this is an issue that affects first generation KWA M9 PTPs and has been resolved with second generation guns. Apparently if you email KWA, you can get the new generation replacement parts for $30 (free if it’s in the warranty period in the US) but I haven’t contacted them yet. Will update my progress when there’s more information.

I’ve received quite a few requests via emails and PMs on Airsoft Canada for an update on my friend’s JG G36C and since about a year has passed, I figure it’s time to take a look at the gun again. Please keep in mind though that the gun is not stock and had installed metal bushings right from day one.

The JG G36C has seen ~30 outdoor games, my teammate is not easy on her gun and despite going all out when playing cosmetically the AEG is in excellent condition. The high wear parts (like the pistol grip and handguard) have gotten a bit glossy but no more so than TM AEGs. I was rather surprised to see that the fire selector markings were still near mint and clearly visible on both sides. The 8.4V 1100mAh battery still keeps a full charge and has been the only battery used with the gun throughout the year.

I figure there would be a couple of issues with the gun and I was right (even though I was reassured that the gun was operating properly). Upon plugging the battery in and installing it into the fore grip, I pulled the trigger and with the gun set to semi, there was nothing. On full auto the gun fired just fine and the response was quick but on semi there was nothing. I planned to open up the mechbox to inspect the parts anyway and now I get to diagnose a problem yay…

After taking out the mechbox, I noticed that the inner barrel was not secured to the outer barrel. Taking the whole assembly out of the body, I noticed that one of the tabs that holds the hopup unit and inner barrel to the outer barrel was broken and on the other side the outer barrel section that secures the hopup unit in place broke clean as well. G36 users know though that this is not too big a deal and the gun can operate without any issues. Working on a few other G36 guns, I noticed this happens to TM and CA models too.

The mechbox and the internal components were in excellent condition and there was little wear on any of the moving parts. Pictures say more than words can so click the thumbnails to get higher resolution images. I’m not sure what the problem with the gun was but after rebuilding the mechbox the JG G36C had no problems firing in semi.

Putting the gun back together, I loaded a mag with 0.2g BBs and it’s time to chrony the thing. According to my Guarder Speeder 2000, after 30 games and unknown thousands of rounds the JG G36C comes in firing at 355 fps on average. That’s 10-15 fps lower than when the gun was new but springs do lose power when they’re used.

There you have it, after a year’s worth of use the JG G36C is still functioning quite well. Yes there were a few problems here and there but it was nothing that a good gun doc couldn’t fix.